Thursday, June 24, 2004

Left hand strip

For best part of a week I've been monitoring the left side oil leak. I cleaned the case and then put bits of tissue in the cutch housing and various screws. On inspection the gasket edge was wet, but not the clutch, so I'm assuming there is a leak. NLM say this is rare on an unsplit engine and oil here is usually from the clutch. However, I think this engine might have been apart before.

Removal of the left engine case was straightforward except that the gear lever/cross over had to be removed too. There were no seized screws, which is miraculous.

The gasket faces look sound but are covered with dried up sealant. All of this will need to be cleaned off. The cam shaft oil seal is damaged and will need replacement. The clutch plates are slightly moist with oil so there is a slight leak into the clutch. I found that the 'spacer sleeve' on the splined drive shaft was free on the inner shaft. It is supposed to be sealed with Hylomar. NLM suggest that this, as well as sealing the spline with silicone can make an oil leak if the seals look fine, which they do. The kick start gers look in acceptable condition, some wear but no missing teeth or anything.

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Wednesday, June 16, 2004

Warm oil

For the last week the weather has been unusually warm here. Not hot, but a little more heat than is average for an English springtime.

The Kanguro has had an oil leak from the left all the time I've had it, but now the drip is faster. If it's like this on a warm day how will the oil stay in when the engine is run all day?

I've looked all around the engine and the oil appears to be coming from the left hand engine cover gasket. It doesn't seem to be the 'dry' clutch... I'm not looking forward to doing this job as there are a lot of bits to replace, seals that might get damaged and the ignition timing gets disturbed. The latter aspect really annoys me. This is bad design. I suppose Lambertini thought that if the left cover has to come off then a timing job is likely to be needed for some other reason.

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Monday, June 14, 2004

Red light

I'd cut the bolts holding the rear lamp unit to the mudgaurd as they were stuck. On inspection I found that the 3 bolts screw into nuts in the lamp housing that engage on plastic edges. This is because it's rather narrow to get a spanner inside.

I chose the cut the nuts up with the Dremel whcih worked a bit, but also melted the palstic. When I'd done this once I decided that the best bet was to melt the nuts out and then repair the holes.

The holes were reapired with blobs of 'chemical metal' that were built upto fill the platic retaining grooves. I stopped it flowing everywhere with a strip of masking tape. Once it had set I filed the filler flat and gently drilled a pilot hole with the Dremel. Then I carefully enlarged it with twist drills.

Obviously all the plastic parts were cleaned for reassembly.

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Thursday, June 10, 2004

Rear mudguard

Although I'm supposedly just getting the bike back on the raod I hated the flat red colour that the PO had painted the bike in. Moreover the vehicle's registration document says that it is 'white'.

So over the last week I've sanded the rear mudguard down to the original primer and gievn it a few coats of spray paint. Inbetween each coat I did a light sand wit hfine wet & dry paper. It's turned out OK, but the original coarse aluminium oxide paper made scratches that I've not been thorugh enough to remove. That can wait for the restoration.

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